Benjamin Wilkie

B.A. (Hons), Ph.D, FSA Scot
@benvwilkie
bvwilkie@gmail.com


Western Kulin Volcanic Traditions: Ethnographic Evidence from the Newer Volcanics Province of Victoria

Unpublished research note, November 2019.

Robert B. Smyth, a mining engineer and early geologist, asked in his 1878 ethnological study, The Aborigines of Victoria, “How did the Aborigines of Australia first get fire? Probably they were never without it.” He observed, from his knowledge of the natural world, that “Far back in geological times there were active volcanoes in Victoria; and in the Miocene and Pliocene periods the southern and western parts formed an archipelago; the Pliocene sea was dotted with islands, and many active points sent upwards tall columns of smoke. Immense rivers of molten lava flowed towards the ocean with which they were at war … Whether or not these islands were peopled, we shall, in all likelihood, never know.”

Moving towards more recent times, as he saw it, he wondered if Australia’s first inhabitants had, indeed, lived – and died – in times of volcanic activity. Smyth observed how “we find, in the places where the volcanic fires lingered until the land took the shape we now see, thin beds of volcanic ash overlying the natural grass-grown surface” and speculated that “it is not impossible – it is even probable – that in such spots there may be discovered relics of the ancient inhabitants of the soil.”

Nineteenth century European observers such as Smyth were evidently attuned to the volcanic history of Victoria. The Newer Volcanics Province covers a 15,000 square kilometre area extending west between Melbourne in central Victoria to Mount Gambier just across the border in South Australia. Volcanic activity has transformed the landscape; there are over 400 eruption points in the region, and volcanic features range from lava shields and scoria cones to some of the most important maar volcanoes in the world, along with lava flows and walkable lava tubes. The youngest eruption is at Mount Gambier, 5000 years ago, and the area is still considered active. Smyth, in his time a man with a national and international reputation as a geologist and meteorologist, could hardly fail to recognise the marks of volcanism upon the landscape.

These curious observers also pondered what Aboriginal Australians knew of this past. Smyth himself recorded how “The Aborigines point to some of the recently extinct volcanoes, and say that fire came from them once.” He had also been told by “Some amongst those who came first to the colony” – that is, by some of the first European colonists in the Port Phillip District – that the Aboriginal people they had spoken to “designated hills known to have been once active points as Willum-a-weenth – the place of fire – and described them as in former times giving forth smoke and steam.”

Willum-a-weenth was likely a name given to volcanoes by the Indigenous people who lived around the Yarra River and present-day Melbourne, at the very eastern extremities of the Newer Volcanics Province. They spoke Woiwurrung. In one compendium of ‘Yarra Yarra Tribe’ language from 1859, the word for a dwelling was, indeed, ‘willam’, while fire was ‘weenth’.  Another observer had wrote out the Woiwurrung word for fire as ‘wein’, while yet another recorded it as ‘wien’.  That a word for ‘fire’ might be included in the names for volcanic landscape features that had not been active for many thousands of years was indeed interesting. In the final analysis, however, Smyth was sceptical that any Victorian Aboriginal people had ever witnessed volcanic activity. Based on what his early though incomplete understanding of Victoria’s geological past, he suggested that “In the most of cases – in nearly all – the geological evidence is certainly against the supposition that the Aborigines could ever have had knowledge of these points as once active volcanoes.”

Smyth probably had numerous reasons for suggesting that it was highly unlikely that Victoria’s Aboriginal people had experience of active volcanoes. Geological studies and methods were in their infancy. The mechanics of volcanism, though of great interest, were hardly understood at all. Certainly, tools did not exist with which a geologist might accurately measure how far into the past a dormant or extinct volcano had last erupted. But the process by which Woiwurrung words for volcanic hills and mountains came to incorporate descriptions of fiery eruptions seemed to give him reason for pause. Smyth wondered how Aboriginal people knew what did they did about these landscape features, but was clearly unwilling or unable to fully accept the possibility of a timeline for Indigenous presence in Victoria that overlapped with so-called geological time: “Whether they have learnt anything of the nature of these hills from the whites, or whether their forefathers had, and transmitted to their descendants, any knowledge of a period when they were active points, is not determinable”, he explained. Victoria’s volcanic landscape was active much more recently than we, even now, would generally assume, while its human inhabitants had been here more a far greater length of time than any Europeans in the nineteenth century could have guessed.

§

Smyth was not the only European person interested in what Victoria’s Aboriginal people knew about the region’s volcanic landscape. In a section of notes that appears to be related to Woiwurrung speaking people, ethnologist Alfred Howitt – whose Native Tribes of South-East Australia was published in 1904 –  records his informants saying that “[the old people] told us of a place out near the narin where the sun goes down like a great fire that never goes out called Kandalau”. While descriptions such as this appear to be related to mythology, they do, in most cases, refer to actual places. In this case, we are concerned with a place “out near the narin where the sun goes down”.

This short sentence provides a good lesson in the interpretation of ethnological notes. ‘Narin’ has been recorded in the name of an old pastoral property, ‘Kout Narin’ or ‘Coortnahring’, which has been in existence since about 1840 between present-day Balmoral and Harrow and lends its name to the current Nareen district. But narin or Nareen is simply a corruption of the word for ‘sun’ – in Wathawurrung and Woiwurrung it is nyawiyn and in Djab wurrung it is nyawi, the latter of which also appears in Djab wurrung and Jardwadjali words for ‘sunset’, nakono nyawi and mirmap nyawi. It is likely Howitt was being told the Woiwurrung name for a sunset but recorded the conversation incorrectly.

Other material is closer to the mark. In his 1881 ethnological study of western Victorian Indigenous groups, the Scottish pastoralist James Dawson had collected together, with the aid of his daughter Isabella, a vast dictionary of Aboriginal words and phrases, particularly those of Djab wurrung speakers. He recorded their social life, the ways they managed the land, and their stories and beliefs. Dawson also wrote of their complex scientific knowledge, which sometimes recalled astronomical and meteorological events many thousands of years in the past. Elsewhere, stories of the rising seas tens of thousands of years ago persisted. In western Victoria, the region’s first people were witness the geological upheavals that had shaped the landscape.

Dawson noted in his study that some Aboriginal place names on the western volcanic plains “indicate the existence of heat in the ground at a former period”. One of these place names was probably Mount Rouse, the naming which provides a rich example of the ways in which landscape features and language interacted. Mount Rouse, at the time of European colonisation, was on the land of the Kolorer gundij, who were Djab wurrung speakers. This name simply means ‘belonging to Kolorer’ – Dawson spelt it as Kuulor. Although Dawson recorded that the Djab wurrung word for lava was tintaeaen, the Dhauwurd wurrung people who lived on the south-west coast – also known as Gunditjmara – called lava kuulor, or, more accurately, kulur. Borrowing from their southern neighbours, Djab wurrung speakers called an active volcano walpa kulur, or ‘burning hill’, while the Dhauwurd wurrung name was baawan kulur. Kolorer, or Mount Rouse, was clearly linked by name to volcanic activity in western-Victoria.

These names are all apt: Mount Rouse, or Kolorer, produced the longest lava flows of the Newer Volcanics Province, travelling through sloping river courses for 60 kilometres until the lava met the sea on the coast at Port Fairy. Dates for this massive eruption conflict, ranging from 300,000 years ago to 1.8 million years ago, towards the start of the most recent period of volcanic activity in the region. If Djab wurrung speakers did not witness the event themselves, they certainly recognised Kolorer as a volcano.

Dawson himself had gathered no evidence that a “tradition exists of any of the old craters, so numerous in the Western District, ever having thrown out smoke or ashes”. The exception, however, was Mount Shadwell near Mortlake – or Burug “a hill near the town of Mortlake”, as Dawson wrote, which belonged to Burnung gundij people, who spoke Girae wurrung. Mount Shadwell, or Barug, first erupted around 25,000 years ago, and perhaps as recently as 5000 years ago. Dawson said that an “intelligent aboriginal distinctly remembers his grandfather speaking of fire coming out of Bo’ok [Burug] when he was a young man.”

Another ethnologist, R. H. Mathews recorded a further story, which seemed to explain how the volcanic Mount Shadwell came to be. In 1904, Mathews published the story of Murkupang, who was a Girae wurrung man “of great stature”, and who one day ate his mother-in-law’s grandchildren. “Fearing the retribution of his mother-in-law's friends,” the story goes, “Murkupang left his habitation at dawn next morning and journeyed down the Hopkins river to a place near Wickliffe, where he tried to make a cave in a rock by pulling loose pieces off with his hands, but he did not succeed. He next went on to Hexham, and saw in the distance Mount Shadwell, with its rocky sides.” The account continues:

He approached it and saw a suitable cave in one side near the top. Being a great conjurer or sorcerer, he commenced “bouncing” or scolding the mountain, and commanded the portion containing the cave to come down nearer to the plain on which he was standing. He stamped his feet and made passes or signs with his hands while he sang a magical song, and presently a large piece of the mountain containing the cave parted from the rest of the hill. Murkupang ran away across the plain, and shouted to the fragment of mountain to follow him. After a while, when he thought he had reached a good camping place, he turned round, stamping his feet and using other menaces which caused the mountain fragment to stop. It then settled down and became what is now known as Flat-top Hill. Murkupang then selected a place sheltered from the weather by an overhanging rock — a sort of cave — and made his camp there.

Indeed, the people who told Mathews this story took him to Mount Shadwell and pointed out the ‘depression’ from which Flat Top Hill was made. Murkupang’s mother-in-law sent two warriors after him. They covered the entrance to his cave with stringybark so that Murkupang could not escape: “A fire was then applied to this inflammable material, which made a great flame and suffocated Murkupang. His spirit flew out of the cave and became a Mopoke, called by the natives mumguty, a bird which goes about at night.” Reduced to its basic elements, the story seems to refer clearly to the seismic activity, landform changes, and fiery eruptions associated with volcanic activity. Indeed, at some point the name for lava was attached to the surrounding landscape; a locality just south of Mount Shadwell, also just north of another volcano, Mount Noorat, is still known today as 'Kolora'.

Elsewhere, the Djargurd wurrung-speaking Leeohoorah gundidj people lived around Mount Leura, part of the Leura Maar volcanic complex with Mount Sugarloaf, which erupted between 5000 and 25,000 years ago. Part of their land also included Lakes Bullenmerri and Gnotuk, likewise formed by maar volcanoes. Dawson recorded that “when some of the volcanic bombs found among the scoria at the foot of Mount Leura were shown to an intelligent Colac native, he said they were like stones which the forefathers told them had been thrown out of the hill by the action of fire.”

As with South Australia and Queensland, the written evidence of volcanic activity taken down by nineteenth century European colonists hints at a remarkable persistence of these memories in the stories and languages of western Victoria’s Kulin people.

§

There are several reasons for exploring volcanism in in the ecological and biocultural traditions of western Kulin people and their neighbours. The Newer Volcanics Province that spans western Victoria and eastern South Australia is a highly distinct geological region of the Australian continent. Its underlying geology has determined, in turn, that western Victoria has some of the richest soils in Australasia. These soils provide the nutrients and ideal conditions for a range of plant communities, as well as habitats for a variety of faunal species. Besides this, the landform itself furnishes an array of streams, creeks, rivers, and lakes that have proved an abundant resource for both water and aquatic species, such as eels. Without subscribing to theories of environmental determinism, which tend to strip people of their agency, it is clear enough through the historic record that the environment of the Victorian volcanic plains was one reason that its first inhabitants were able to settle in villages, practice the earliest forms of human aquaculture, and live relatively healthy and affluent lives. The volcanoes here were important in this regard and were also an important enough part of the landscape to be remembered and encoded in oral traditions.

The ethnographic record for western Victorian Indigenous people is also distinctly rich. The speed, concentration, and timing of colonisation yielded an abundance of written records of Victorian Aboriginal communities, and this was in no small part attributable to the establishment of the Port Philip Aboriginal Protectorate at around the same time the pastoral invasion began in the late 1830s. Its first leader, George A. Robinson, and his deputies and successors were notably meticulous men, and wrote down a great deal of observations from their tours into the Western District, as it became known, in the late 1830s to the middle of the 1840s. Their records are not perfect, but they have proven useful in reconstructing Aboriginal life at or just before colonisation, nonetheless. Western Victoria also produced a number of amateur anthropologists or ethnologists – people who, in any case, were deeply interested in Aboriginal life and customs, and who went to great lengths to record and preserve this information in the second half of the nineteenth century.

Third, and finally, the archaeological, palaeoecological, and ethnographic evidence from western Victoria has played a significant role in arguments about how Aboriginal Australian life and society was organised over the tens of thousands of years the first Australians have occupied this land. Debates over the intensification of Aboriginal economic and social activity from around four millennia ago – and what caused it – substantially relied in the beginning on archaeological findings from western Victorian sites. This scholarly conflict pitted social and economic explanations against environmental determinants – such as climate change from the late Pleistocene to mid-Holocene – for the distinct intensification of human activity in Australia that had become evident at archaeological sites starting around four or five thousand years ago. Importantly, this debate moved understandings of Australia’s so-called ‘prehistory’ beyond views of Indigenous Australians as bearing a static, unchanging culture that, at best, only ever evolved in response to environmental change.

Western Victoria’s volcanism and the abrupt and violent transformation of landscapes that accompanies a volcanic eruption, however, have played little role in these discussions, despite being an environmental factor throughout the established period of Indigenous occupation in the region. Without assigning it an overarching and deterministic role, volcanism was, nevertheless, part of the lived experience of many Indigenous groups, and volcanic activity was important enough in their lives that memory and knowledge of it was held in language and traditions that were eventually passed on, after thousands of years, to Europeans in the nineteenth century.